Clicking When Turning
Hearing a clicking sound when you turn your car can be unsettling, but it's a very common issue that automotive technicians see regularly. Most often, it points to a worn component in your vehicle's suspension or drivetrain that is understandable and fixable.
This is a very common symptom, especially in front-wheel-drive vehicles with higher mileage. It's one of the most frequent noises reported to mechanics.
Can I drive my car right now?
Limit driving
While a clicking sound when turning isn't usually an immediate safety hazard that will cause you to lose control, it does indicate a worn part that could eventually fail completely. If the component fails, you could be stranded or experience a sudden loss of power to a wheel, so it's best to address it soon.
A clicking sound when turning is most commonly caused by a worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint, which is part of your vehicle's axle assembly. These joints allow the wheels to turn and move up and down while still receiving power from the engine. Other potential causes include failing wheel bearings or worn ball joints.
What You'll Notice
- 1A rhythmic clicking or popping sound, especially when turning left or right
- 2The clicking may get faster as vehicle speed increases during the turn
- 3The sound might be more pronounced when accelerating through a turn
- 4A grinding or humming sound that changes with speed (if it's a wheel bearing)
Most Likely Causes
Ranked by probabilityWorn Constant Velocity (CV) Joint
The most common culprit for clicking when turning is a worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint. These joints are part of your vehicle's axle shafts and allow power to be transmitted to the wheels while they steer and move up and down. Over time, the protective rubber boot around the joint can tear, allowing dirt and moisture in, which contaminates the grease and causes the joint to wear out. Replacing the affected CV axle assembly typically resolves this issue in about 9 out of 10 cases.
Failing Wheel Bearing
A failing wheel bearing can also cause a clicking, grinding, or humming noise that often changes in pitch or intensity when turning. As the bearing wears, the internal components can develop play, leading to noise. The load shift during a turn can make the noise more apparent. While less common than a CV joint for a distinct 'clicking', it's a significant possibility. Replacing the wheel bearing and hub assembly typically resolves the issue.
Worn Ball Joint
Ball joints connect the steering knuckle to the control arms, allowing the suspension to articulate and the wheels to steer. When a ball joint wears out, it can develop play, leading to a popping or clicking sound, especially when turning at low speeds or going over bumps. This is a critical safety component, and replacement should be done promptly. Replacing the worn ball joint (or control arm if it's integrated) typically resolves the noise.
Loose or Worn Tie Rod End
Tie rod ends are part of your steering system, connecting the steering rack to the steering knuckle. If a tie rod end becomes loose or worn, it can cause a clicking or clunking sound, particularly when turning the steering wheel or going over small bumps. This can also affect steering precision and tire wear. Replacing the affected tie rod end typically resolves the issue.
Don't Confuse With
Brake noise (e.g., worn pads, loose caliper)
Brake noise typically occurs when applying the brakes, not just when turning. While a loose brake component could click, it's less common to be strictly tied to turning without braking. Check for brake pad wear and caliper tightness separately.
Steering rack or pump noise
Steering rack noise is usually a clunk or groan felt through the steering wheel, and power steering pump noise is typically a whine or groan that changes with engine RPM, not directly with wheel rotation during a turn. A clicking tied to wheel rotation is more indicative of a CV joint or wheel bearing.
How to Diagnose
- 1**Safety First:** Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and put the vehicle in park (automatic) or neutral (manual).
- 2**Visual Inspection:** Start by visually inspecting the front CV axle boots. Look for any tears, cracks, or signs of grease leaking out. This is a strong indicator of a failing CV joint.
- 3**Listen and Feel:** With the vehicle safely lifted on jack stands, try to spin each front wheel by hand and listen for any grinding, humming, or roughness. Then, grasp each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, and then 3 and 9 o'clock, and try to rock it to check for play in the wheel bearing, ball joints, and tie rod ends.
- 4**Test Drive:** In a safe, open area (like an empty parking lot), drive slowly in tight circles, both left and right, and listen carefully to pinpoint the side and specific conditions (e.g., accelerating through the turn) that make the clicking most prominent.
- 5**Professional Scan (if codes present):** If you have a 'Check Engine' light or ABS/Traction Control warning, use an OBD-II scanner to check for any stored 'C' codes, which could point to a wheel bearing issue.
Related OBD Codes
These 'C' (Chassis) codes relate to wheel speed sensor circuits. While a worn CV joint won't directly trigger these, a severely failing wheel bearing can cause excessive play that interferes with the wheel speed sensor's reading, leading to ABS or traction control system warnings and these codes.
When to Call a Professional
- If you notice any structural damage, severe corrosion, or fluid leaks from the steering or braking system during your inspection.
- If the repair requires specialty tools you don't have, or if bolts are seized and won't budge.
- If you're not comfortable working on safety-critical systems like suspension and steering, that's a smart decision – this is exactly what professional mechanics specialize in.
What to Tell Your Mechanic
To help your mechanic diagnose the issue quickly and accurately, provide as much detail as possible about the clicking sound.
• When exactly does the clicking occur (e.g., turning left, turning right, accelerating while turning)?
• How fast are you going when it clicks?
• Does it get louder or faster with speed?
• Does it happen over bumps?
• Which side of the car does it seem to come from?
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a clicking sound when turning dangerous?
While not usually an immediate danger that causes loss of control, a clicking sound indicates a worn part that could eventually fail. A completely failed CV joint can leave you stranded, and a severely worn wheel bearing or ball joint can compromise steering and suspension integrity, so it's best to address it promptly.
Can I drive with a clicking CV joint?
You can typically drive for a short period with a clicking CV joint, but it's not recommended for long distances or extended periods. The joint will continue to degrade, and eventually, it could fail completely, leading to a loss of power to that wheel and leaving you stranded.
How long does a CV joint last once it starts clicking?
There's no definitive answer, as it depends on the severity of the wear and driving conditions. It could last anywhere from a few weeks to several months, but the noise will likely worsen, and the risk of complete failure increases over time. It's best to replace it as soon as possible.
Does a clicking sound always mean a CV joint?
While a worn CV joint is the most common cause (around 70% likelihood), other components like a failing wheel bearing, worn ball joint, or loose tie rod end can also cause similar noises. A thorough diagnosis is important to pinpoint the exact source.
Can a clicking sound be fixed without replacing the whole axle?
In some cases, if only the outer CV boot is torn and the joint hasn't been contaminated for long, you might be able to replace just the boot and regrease the joint. However, once the clicking starts, it usually means the joint is already worn and replacing the entire CV axle assembly is the most reliable and long-lasting fix.
How do I know I'm ordering the right part?
At Auto Barn, we make it easy. Simply enter your vehicle's year, make, and model on our website, and we'll show you parts guaranteed to fit your specific car. You can also double-check with your VIN at checkout for ultimate confidence.
Related Symptoms
Repair Cost Estimate
DIY (Quality Parts)
50-70k miles
$100-$250
Shop Repair
Parts + labor
$200-$450
Save $100-$200 by performing a DIY CV axle replacement.
Difficulty
intermediate
Time
1-2 hours per side
Tools You'll Need
- Socket set (metric/SAE, depending on vehicle)
- Wrenches
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar
- Pry bar
- Large C-clamp or ball joint press (for some ball joints)
- Axle nut socket (size varies by vehicle)
- Hammer or mallet
- Flathead screwdriver (for prying)
- Wire brush (for cleaning rust)
- Penetrating oil
Safety Gear
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Closed-toe shoes
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Car problems always seem to happen at the worst time, adding stress to your day. We're here to help you understand what's going on and guide you to a confident solution.
Every car is different, and we want you to stay safe. If anything feels off during your inspection, or you're unsure about what you're seeing, a professional inspection is always a smart call. For brakes, steering, and suspension, we especially recommend having a mechanic verify before driving.